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Anyone who walks the Northern Way sooner or later ends up at a bar.
Not out of tiredness, but out of instinct. That attraction of seeing counters laden with bread, toothpicks, colors, and smells that change with each bar and each town.
From Bilbao to San Sebastián , pintxos are part of the landscape: small, shiny, carefully placed like edible jewels.

But the beauty of all this is not the aesthetics, nor even the taste, —which is also—.
The beauty is the ritual: ordering a zurito, chatting, eating standing up, changing places. Laughing.
Pintxos are not eaten: they are shared.

Where does all this come from?

The pintxo was born humble.
A slice of bread, an anchovy, an olive, a toothpick.
A bar invention in San Sebastián bars at the beginning of the 20th century, made to accompany wine and prolong conversation.
Wine, words, bread, and sea. That's the formula.

Then came the creativity. In the 1930s, bars like La Espiga and Casa Vallés began to play with flavor.
That's where the Gilda came from, that olive, anchovy and chili skewer that became an icon.
And here's a note for curious gourmets: the chili peppers in Gilda are actually piparras , the fine, smooth green chili peppers with the Basque Country Designation of Origin .
Whether you try them fresh or buy them at the WAYS market on the Camino, you'll understand why everyone is talking about them.
And if you accompany them with a cold glass of Txakoli , also available at the WAYS market, which is the Basque white wine par excellence, the whole thing is perfect.

The evolution of the pintxo

The Basque people have one virtue: they never stop cooking, nor do they stop improving what already works.
Thus, the pintxo became a playing field.
What began with bread and anchovy ended in creations with foie, spider crab, sirloin, mushrooms, octopus or Idiazabal cheese .
There are bars that look like laboratories and others that maintain the classic feel, but they all have the same family feel: good products, clear flavor, no nonsense.

And yes, in the Basque Country you can eat standing up better than sitting down in many restaurants around the world.

Where to taste them on the Camino del Norte

The Camino here isn't just a walk: it's a journey in stages . From Irun to Castro Urdiales , every town has its own version of perfection.

Irun

• It starts with Gilda . It's the perfect balance of sea and character.
• Txaka —crab salad on bread—is eaten in one bite and leaves you wanting another.
  

Hondarribia

• At the award-winning Gran Sol , try the txangurro or foie gras .
• At El Callejón , the tortilla and the gildas never fail.
• The fresh anchovies in the old town are worth the trip.
  

San Sebastián / Donostia

• Gilda was born in Casa Vallés and Txepetxa . Respect the origins.
• At Bar Néstor , tortillas are a religion (arrive early or you'll be left without).
• In Bergara , try the “Txalupa”: mushrooms and sea, hot and smooth.
• At Goiz Argi , the shrimp skewer does not fail.
• At La Cuchara de San Telmo or Sport , foie and cheeks with soul.
• At Borda-Berri , we cook with impudence: ear, risotto, octopus.
• In Gandarias , sirloin is eaten without a knife, with respect.
• At La Viña , the cheesecake that became famous across half the planet.
  

Orio

• Thick tortilla, with or without cod, but always juicy.
• Cod pintxos that melt with the local Txakoli.
  

Zarautz

• Anchovies , peppers and sea.
• Stuffed or baked crab : the taste of the coast, without artifice.
  

Getaria

• Bread, anchovy, Txakoli . A perfect trilogy.
• Txangurro in piquillo peppers, the classic that never dies.
  

Deba

• Smoked bonito and txistorra on bread: two extremes, same pleasure.
  

Ondarroa and Lekeitio

• Grilled squid or in its ink.
• Octopus , tender, straight from the sea.
  

Gernika

• Gernika peppers , mild and sweet, sometimes with anchovy on top.
  

Bilbao (Old Town)

• Cod pil-pil at Café Bar Bilbao or Gure Toki.
• Sweet cheek , mini hamburgers, txistorra in puff pastry .
• In Motrikes , mushrooms are the law.
  

Portugalete and Santurtzi

• Grilled sardines and bonito salad : port, charcoal and salt.
  

Castro Urdiales

It's Cantabria , yes, but here, flavor knows no borders. The rabas (fried calamari) and the grilled seafood are part of the same journey: one that unites coast, tradition, and fine dining.

How to live the ritual

• Order one or two pintxos per bar and keep walking.
• Accompany them with a zurito or a glass of Txakoli .
• Always ask what the pintxo of the day is—there's pride behind every dish here.

• And above all, talk, laugh, and share . No one eats alone at a Basque bar.

More than cooking

The pintxo is Euskadi in miniature: honest, unadorned, but full of soul.
He doesn't boast, he doesn't compete. He offers.
Every bite is a story: of the sea, of the farm, of the family that has been behind the counter for three generations.

Basque cuisine is world-famous—Arzak, Subijana, Aduriz—but its essence isn't just in the signature menus: it's in the bars.
There, where the bread smells freshly baked and the cook looks you in the eye while serving you.

The secret is simple: real ingredients, respect and joy.
And that, my friend, can't be taught. It's inherited.

Bertsolaris, Dantzaris, Tamborradas… and much more

Traveling the Camino del Norte is like entering a dreamy landscape.
Between the sea and the mountains, every town in the Basque Country breathes rhythm, song, and community.
Here music is not a spectacle: it is memory, resistance and pride .
Sing together, play together, dance together.
Basque music is a language of its own, made of wood, stone and voices.

For centuries, when Basque was persecuted, song and dance kept the language alive .
Today they remain a way of saying: we are still here .
It is no coincidence that the Basques humorously say: “Three Basques, one choir.”

Bertsolaritza: sung poetry and improvised soul

Bertsolaris are poets who improvise verses sung in Basque.
In front of an audience, and based on a theme or challenge, they immediately compose their verses: wit, emotion and rhythm.
There's no script or trickery, just talent and connection with people.

The origins of bertsolaritza date back to the countryside, when stories were told through singing at fairs or taverns.
During the dictatorship, it was a refuge and cultural resistance.
Today, it is a symbol of identity and living art: championships fill squares and theaters, and the bars of Gipuzkoa continue to be its natural setting.

Where to experience it:
Donostia, Zarautz, Getaria, Hondarribia—during summer festivals or local championships.
Every four years, the National Bertsolaris Championship is held, a true tribute to the Basque language.

Dantzaris: the body that speaks in rhythm

Basque dances are not decoration, they are ceremony.
The dantzaris keep alive choreographies that have been danced for centuries: the Aurresku , the Dantzari Dantza , the sword dances.
Every step, every jump, has its story.

The sound of the txistu (flute) and the drum guide the movements; white costumes, red sashes, and colored ribbons complete the scene.
Once rituals of fertility or protection, today they are a form of unity and local pride.

Where to experience it:

During the patron saint festivals of almost all the towns in the Basque Country: Bilbao , Durango , Abadiño , Zarautz or during the Aste Nagusia (Big Week) in Donostia, in August.
In the squares, amidst cider, music, and applause, the tradition continues to dance.

Tamborrada: the roar of a united people

On January 20 , Donostia is transformed.
At midnight, the beating of drums marks the beginning of 24 hours of noise, rhythm, and collective joy.
The Tamborrada is the most intense festival in the Basque Country: more than 15,000 San Sebastian residents , dressed as cooks and soldiers, march through the streets playing the San Sebastian Anthem in unison.

What began as a mockery of Napoleon's armies became a celebration of identity and resilience .
On that day, no one is a spectator: everyone is part of the same drum.

Where to experience it:

• Donostia / San Sebastián , January 20.
  Constitution Square is the heart of the festival, where the flag is raised and everything begins.
• In summer, smaller versions resonate in Bilbao , Zarautz , Hondarribia and Getaria .
  

Many sounds, one song

The Basque Country has one of the richest musical traditions in Europe.
Singing and playing is a way of being in community:

• Ochotes (male choirs in Bilbao)
• Trikitixa (diatonic accordion that livens up every pilgrimage)
• Txalaparta (wooden instrument played by two people)
• Txistu and Alboka , flutes that have been playing for centuries

The nights of Santa Águeda are pure folklore: the neighbors sing door to door, wearing costumes and carrying lanterns.
At Christmas, children follow Olentzero singing old songs.
And in bars, choirs emerge from nowhere, without a stage, without microphones.
Here music is not consumed: it is shared.

From traditional to contemporary

The Basque musical tradition did not stop in the past.
Artists such as Mikel Laboa , Benito Lertxundi and Oskorri mixed poetry, folk and protest, creating a sound that remains profoundly Basque.

Festivals such as Heineken Jazzaldia (Donostia) or BBK Live (Bilbao) demonstrate that Basque music evolves without losing its roots.

The trikitixa , the txalaparta and the voices of the choirs coexist with electric guitars and synthesizers.
It's all part of the same sonic DNA: emotion, collectivity, truth.

Where and when to experience Basque music on the Camino del Norte

One soul

Bertsolaris, dantzaris, tamborreros... three different ways of saying the same thing:
Music is the heart of the Basque Country. It is resistance and celebration, memory and the present. And if you walk the Northern Way , you won't just see it: it will captivate you . Because here, between sea and mountains, the rhythm doesn't come from a stage, but from something deeper: the people, their language, their land.

When you walk the Northern Way along the Basque coast, there's one tradition that never goes unnoticed. It's pure life, pure folklore in motion: Herri Kirolak , the "people's sports." Competitions of strength, skill, and community pride are a living reflection of the Basque countryside, its people, and our unique way of understanding work and life.

Origin and history

The Herri Kirolak were born from real work, from everyday life in the farms and at sea: chopping wood, lifting stones, mowing grass, pulling loads, pulling ropes. At the end of the work or during village festivals, what was once labor became a challenge: who cuts the fastest? Who lifts the most weight? Who can endure the longest? Thus, amid laughter, sweat, and txakoli, local heroes were born, along with a tradition that still beats strong today.

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, these challenges were already a fixture of fairs and pilgrimages. Industrialization didn't erase them; on the contrary, it turned them into symbols of identity and resilience. Today, the Herri Kirolak are still present, with championships, festivals, and exhibitions that connect new generations with the irrepressible spirit of the Basque Country .

The main disciplines

• Aizkolaritza (log cutting): The aizkolaris use axe in hand to cut through enormous logs with force and precision.
• Stone lifting: true titans lift blocks weighing more than 200 kilos in the shape of a cube, sphere, or cylinder.
• Txinga eramatea (weight carrying): walk as far as possible carrying a weight in each hand.
• Lasto altxatzea (lifting bales): repeatedly lifting bales of straw with a pulley to the sky.
• Tug-of-war: a team sport with ancient roots; it remains a staple at almost every festival.
• Idi probak (oxen trials): the animals drag large stones, demonstrating strength, understanding and patience.

And although it's sometimes forgotten, Basque pelota and rowing regattas are also part of this sporting landscape of sea and mountains. They all share the same values: effort, tenacity, collective pride, and respect for the land.

The best villages on the Northern Way to see Herri Kirolak

These villages aren't chosen at random. They're the ones that keep tradition alive, where the times are etched in the festival calendar and the sound of the axe or the rope is part of summer. Here's your direct and verified guide on where and when to experience them properly:

Donostia / San Sebastián

The beating heart of the Herri Kirolak. During Semana Grande (Big Week) (mid-August), the squares and beaches become a brutal stage: log-cutting, stone-lifting, bales in the air, and rope-pulling that thrill the audience.
It's not limited to summer: there are professional exhibitions and open competitions throughout the year.

Getaria

Here, the Herri Kirolak are sacred. During the San Salvador Festival (the first week of August), the town square and the port fill with aizkolaris (bullfighters), harrijasotzailes (bullfighters), and oxen at work. Also on San Pedro (June 29) and San Antón (January 17), the town once again beats to the rhythm of exertion.

Zarautz

Sand, sea, and strength. In summer and during the patron saint festivals (June to August), the beaches and central square are filled with open-air exhibitions. Zarautz is a pure coastal spectacle: sport, tradition, and a crowd that cheers like it's the Champions League final.

Bilbao (Old Town and Basque Fest)

The Bilbao Basque Fest (April) is a must-see: several days of workshops, competitions, and demonstrations that blend strength and culture.
During the summer, the neighborhoods of the Old Town celebrate their own festivals, and there's always room for rural sports.

Markina-Xemein

Land of Basque pelota (jai alai), but also of brute force. At its fairs and festivals, stones fly and aizkolaris fight like they did in the old days. Pure tradition.

Hondarribia

In September, the Hondarribia Festival combines the spirit of the sea with rural strength. The Herri Kirolak events are interspersed with regattas and fishing celebrations. The setting: a beautiful village where the scent of the sea and freshly cut wood fills the air.

Deba and Gernika

Both represent the essence of the most authentic rural sport. In Deba, the summer festivals feature classic events: cutting, lifting, and dragging.
In Gernika, the Monday Market and other local festivities are the best showcase for the champions of the effort.

Of all the stops, Donostia, Getaria, Zarautz, Bilbao, and Hondarribia are the most reliable and vibrant places to immerse yourself in this unique Basque tradition.

Tips from the Camino

• When: Between June and October , coinciding with the patron saint's day festivities; August and April are the peak months in the cities.
• Where: in squares , ports , beaches , and fairs. Ask at the tourist office about the “ Herri Kirolak ” program.
• How to: Most are free and open to the public , but arrive early if you want to see more than just the shoulders of the people in front of you. Some towns even offer workshops so you can try your hand at wood splitting or rock lifting (with supervision, of course).
  

Why the Herri Kirolak matter

Because they're not just sports. They're a celebration of who we are: of effort, of community, of the pride of a people who learned to live off their land and sea. Seeing them, hearing the sharp blow of the axe on the tree trunk, or the shout of encouragement during a tug-of-war, is to understand something essential about the Basque Country .

So if you do the Camino del Norte, set aside a day to experience it. You don't need to understand the rules. Just look, listen, and feel. It's powerful, it's exciting, and it's, without a doubt, the most Basque thing you'll see on the entire Camino .

Those who walk the Northern Coastal Route experience a constant dialogue between two titanic forces: the Cantabrian Sea and the challenging mountains of the Cantabrian Mountains and the Picos de Europa. Nowhere else on the peninsula do the blue of the Atlantic and the gray of the limestone embrace with such closeness and drama. From San Vicente de la Barquera, the horizon changes, and the traveler begins to perceive how the peaks rise, marking the pace and identity of the route.

The Picos de Europa dominate the Asturian-Cantabrian landscape like a fortress of stone and greenery. They are the mineral heart of the mountain range and offer pilgrims breathtaking views, vertiginous canyons, and trails that challenge both body and soul. The Northern Way always advances guided by their distant profile, forging a path that seems to seek the exact balance between the salty breeze and the mountain freshness.

But those who walk through the North discover that the journey has beautiful and legendary detours that lead into the mountainous interior. One of them, steeped in symbolism and beauty, is the pilgrimage to Covadonga , a sacred enclave in the heart of the Picos de Europa. The Holy Cave and the Royal Basilica of Covadonga not only offer contemplation and legend: they are a destination for pilgrims seeking the spiritual center of Asturias, the origin of the Jacobean faith, and the gateway to the deepest mountain landscapes.

From the coastal route, ancient paths branch out, such as the Camino Lebaniego , which winds through gorges and valleys to cross the very Cantabrian Hermida and reach the monastery of Santo Toribio de Liébana. There, the pilgrim encounters the history and solitude of the heights; the meadows of Tudanca goats and cows, the blue cheeses, and the livestock fairs, all under the influence of the sacred mountain. The Camino Primitivo , meanwhile, heads inland from Oviedo, crossing rock passes, hidden villages, and solitary landscapes, following in the footsteps of the first true pilgrim in search of Santiago.

The Cantabrian Mountains , the source of climate and culture, define the character of the route, the flavor of the products, the strength of the travelers, and the topography of each stage. Here, the mountains are not just landscapes: they are living cultures, shaping agricultural and livestock life, rural festivals, and traditional cuisine for millennia. They teach hikers the importance of observing the weather, respecting the terrain, and allowing themselves to be surprised by the local hospitality.

Thus, the Northern Coastal Route, in constant dialogue with other mountain routes, is a path between the sea and the mountains: it unites the sound of the waves with the mystery of the peaks and legendary destinations, invites you to stray and lose yourself among canyons and hills, and reveals the profound fusion that magnifies the soul of the North.

Here, every detour is an adventure and a learning experience; every arrival is a pause and amazement.

In northern Spain, cider is much more than a drink: it is tradition, a living memory, and a symbol of hospitality. Its history begins with the native apple trees that carpet the humid lands of Asturias, the Basque Country, and Cantabria, where the Atlantic climate favors crops full of aroma and acidity, perfect for artisanal cider. Strabo and medieval chroniclers already mentioned its consumption, when the first "llagares" —cider cellars and presses—were an essential part of communal life and the regional rural wealth.

The art of cider making endures: in every section of the Northern Way, apples are harvested and fermented with care, keeping native varieties alive and using methods that evade industrialization. Asturias has seen the rebirth of small artisanal producers like Valverán (Sariego), a pioneer in ice cider; Cantabria preserves family cider mills in valleys like Pas and Ribadedeva ; and the Basque tradition is becoming international with ciders like Zelaia and Isastegi in Gipuzkoa, benchmarks of txotx expertise.

Consumption translates history and ritual: in Asturias, cider is poured from high above to oxygenate it, served in glasses between conversations and rounds of conversation. Asturian chigres and Basque cider houses are much more than taverns; they are temples of encounter, regional cuisine, and popular culture. In the Basque Country, cider houses celebrate the txotx ( a traditional cider festival) every spring, surrounded by classic menus and long gatherings where cider is shared as an essential part of the gastronomic and social experience.

For pilgrims on the Northern Way, cider becomes a must-visit on their journey through coastal towns and cities.

In Asturias, you can't miss visiting:

• Gijón: Sidrería La Costa (Travellers' Choice), Casa Ataulfo and Casa Trabanco, famous for the “Cider Tunnel” and guided tastings.
• Villaviciosa: Casa Cortina and El Roxu, the epicenter of the annual cider fair and one of the great apple capitals of Spain.
• Oviedo: Alterna Sidrería, El Ferroviario and El Pigüeña, on Gascona Street, where every corner smells of cider and community.
• Grado and Amandi: Where Feudo Real and Sidra Cortina offer artisanal cider experiences among forests and meadows.
  

In Cantabria, although less prominent, you can enjoy cider in:

• Santander and Torrelavega: Local cider houses and bars ideal for tapas with Asturian cider.
• San Vicente de la Barquera and Ribadedeva: Family-run bars and small cider mills, where the aroma of cider will welcome you.
  

The Basque Country completes the cider journey in Gipuzkoa:

• Astigarraga, Hernani, and Usurbil: Cider epicentres where you can experience the txotx tradition in essential cider houses like Zelaia and Isastegi, surrounded by rituals, local food, and a festive atmosphere.
  

Thus, cider accompanies the journey and rest of those who travel the Camino del Norte, uniting landscape, culture, and hospitality in every glass poured. The encounter at the cider house is much more than a custom; it is the synthesis of the best of the north: flavor, tradition, and the art of living and sharing.

The Indianos are a fundamental part of the history and cultural landscape of northern Spain, and their influence is strongly felt along the Camino del Norte.

The term "Indiano" refers to the emigrant who left for America—especially during the 19th and early 20th centuries —in search of fortune, and who after years of effort decided to return to his homeland with new resources, ideas, and customs.

This experience significantly transformed the communities along the Northern Route: the Indianos not only brought capital, but also innovation and cosmopolitanism. Their return left a visible mark on architecture and social life : they built the famous Indiano houses, mansions and chalets in eclectic styles that blend colonial elements with local details, colorful facades, large windows, glass-enclosed galleries, and exotic gardens where palm trees became a true symbol of the voyage to the Americas.

These houses were, in many cases, a declaration of success and openness to the world, and often served as centers of social life, charity, and local modernization: the Indianos founded schools, hospitals, cultural centers, and promoted the arrival of electricity and water to their villages.

The memory of the Indianos survives not only in their architecture, but also in the traditions and customs they brought with them. These include a passion for Cuban and South American music, culinary recipes with overseas influences such as rice and coffee, more refined styles of dress, and social habits of gatherings and parties that reinterpret the cultural fusion of their return. Their legacy was so intense that today many towns celebrate "Indian Festivals" to pay tribute to those who returned, with period costumes and traditional American music, evoking a moment of splendor and shared joy.

Where can you admire this legacy while traveling the Camino del Norte?

In Cantabria, the most notable are Colombres —where the Indianos Archive is a must-see— Comillas, and Medio Cudeyo , while in Asturias , Llanes and Boal stand out, and in Galicia, Ribadeo . These towns preserve unique collections of Indiano houses, many of which have been restored and can be visited, and each year they organize festivals in honor of their Indianos.

In Colombres (Ribadedeva), the Indianos Fair is held from July 11 to 13, 2025, with parades, dramatized tours, and concerts. Ribadeo organizes its Ribadeo Indiano on the same weekend, and Comillas celebrates Indiano Day between August 30 and September 1. These are joyful and participatory celebrations, where the community is transformed, reliving the emigration and sharing with visitors the living memory of those who changed local history.

In the photograph, Casa Indiana de Colombres.

Traineras are traditional Cantabrian vessels, originally designed as rowing and occasionally sailing fishing boats, specifically designed to catch anchovies and sardines. Their architecture is unmistakable: long, narrow, with a high bow and rounded stern, capable of withstanding the strong waves and adverse conditions of the Cantabrian Sea.

The name "trainera" comes from the "traína," the fine-meshed net used by sailors to catch fish, especially during the frenetic competition to land at the port, where the first to arrive received the best prices for fresh catch.

Its origins date back to the late 18th and early 19th centuries , when fishing subsistence depended on speed and endurance; rowing teams had to reach port before the others to auction off their catch. Over time, this natural rivalry evolved into sporting competitions that are now authentic summer symbols and a symbol of local identity in the ports of Galicia, Asturias, Cantabria, the Basque Country, and the French coast. The trainera regatta is much more than a sport: it is a spectacle, a celebration, and a living memory of the seafaring past, where collective effort, the skipper's leadership, and camaraderie remain core values.

Along the Cantabrian coast, there are slight differences in the rowing traditions and rowing traditions of each region. For example, they may vary slightly in the number of rowers or skippers, the modern construction materials (from oak and cedar to carbon), and the format of the competitions themselves. In Cantabria and the Basque Country, rowing regattas are held with a large popular following, while in Galicia, the boats and races may adopt local characteristics.

Traineras share similarities with other Atlantic vessels, such as British and French racing yawls and Cornish gig boats, all of which were originally designed for fishing and transformed into competitive sports based on rowing and mastery of the sea. However, the trainera retains a special connection with northern fishing culture and the character of its crews.

For those following the Northern Coastal Route , the trainera regattas are an experience worth seeing in person. Every summer, between July and September, Cantabrian ports such as Castro Urdiales, Santander, and San Vicente de la Barquera—as well as all along the Basque and Galician coasts—organize competitions where travelers can join in the festivities: the streets fill with music, fans, and "arraunzales" (rowers and enthusiasts).

In 2025, the calendar kicks off on July 5th with the Bilbao Flag Day and culminates around September 21st with the finals in Portugalete and other coastal towns. Consulting the local calendar and visiting the ports is the best way to fully experience this vibrant and ancient tradition.

The photograph belongs to the documentary Traineras del 2024

In Santoña, anchovies are a symbol of identity, history, and excellence that has given this Cantabrian port international fame.

The anchovy tradition in Santoña dates back centuries, although its greatest boost came in the late 19th century , when Sicilian families introduced salting techniques and, later, the filleting and oil-packing techniques that today distinguish the world's finest anchovies. The combination of local artisanal know-how and Mediterranean touches made Santoña the undisputed anchovy capital, transforming the town's economy, landscape, and pace of life.

The process is meticulous and demanding ; it begins with the spring harvest of anchovies ( Engraulis encrasicolus ), when they reach the perfect level of fattiness and flavor. Local fishermen employ sustainable techniques—many of which are family-run—to ensure the highest quality. Upon arrival, the anchovies are beheaded and gutted by hand, then placed in barrels alternating layers of fish and sea salt, where they rest for several months to enhance their aromas and texture. Curing typically lasts at least six months, but the best anchovies mature for up to a full year.

Next comes the work of the "sobadoras," expert women who clean, peel, and fillet each anchovy manually, removing bones and skin without applying heat—a delicate and essential task for achieving the clean, firm fillets for which Santoña is famous. The final step is "packaging": the selected fillets are carefully placed in cans or jars and covered with high-quality olive oil, which enhances their flavor and prolongs their shelf life. A curious aspect is the presence of a small piece of paper with a number inside the anchovy cans. This paper identifies the person responsible for packaging. The entire process is artisanal and can take up to a year from fishing to final tasting.

What makes Santoña anchovies unique? The combination of several factors: the freshness and quality of the Cantabrian anchovy, the art of traditional salting, the long curing time, and meticulous hand-filleting. The result is anchovies with a silky texture, intense flavor, a perfect balance of salt and umami, and an unparalleled visual clarity. It's no surprise to find entire families dedicated to this art for generations.

The Santoña anchovy is so valuable that it has its own annual fair, the Cantabria Anchovy and Preserve Fair , held every year at the beginning of May, from the 1st to the 4th in 2025. The event brings together canneries, artisans and visitors around tastings, talks and demonstrations, bringing the trade and its secrets closer to curious people and enthusiasts.

Along with Santoña, towns such as Laredo and Colindres also have a deep tradition in the preparation and curing of anchovies. Although Santoña has gained the most international recognition, its ancestral canning techniques have spread throughout the eastern coast of Cantabria. These towns, with historic fishing ports and canning families, continue to apply techniques that reflect the knowledge of the sea and perpetuate the quality of the Cantabrian anchovy.

If you ever try an anchovy from Santoña, Laredo, or Colindres, think about the entire process, the dedication, and the control that goes into each fillet. They are much more than food: they are the history and living treasure of Cantabria.

Photograph from the book Anchovy Sobadoras

Ox pulling in Cantabria is much more than a competition: it's an ancient celebration that connects brute strength with respect for the animal, livestock expertise with pride of belonging, and the land with the sea. Those who experience these festivities along the coast, where the Atlantic crashes against the cliffs, witness this fascinating fusion of seafaring and rural traditions, especially in the villages along the Northern Coastal Route.

These competitions began as a way to demonstrate the strength and skill of oxen, key players in the work of the Cantabrian fields and mountains. Today, the dragging represents identity and resilience: the patient relationship between farmer and animal, the skill passed down from generation to generation, and a testament to a life tied to the landscape. On the sand, the oxen drag enormous stones under the watchful eyes of families, judges, and tourists, while the community gathers around this ritual of strength and camaraderie.

The Comillas Regional Cattle Dragging Championship and Livestock Fair is the highlight of the calendar. Held in the Campa de Sobrellano area every August, this event brings together the best teams and transforms the fishing village into the epicenter of Cantabrian livestock tradition. Ranchers come from all over the region, and it's common to see entire families, from grandparents to grandchildren, participating and enjoying the festive atmosphere, the local produce market, and the spectacle of the competition.

Along the Northern Coastal Way, hikers can encounter drag parades in San Vicente de la Barquera (January, during the patron saint festivals by the sea), Castro Urdiales (February and June, in rural neighborhoods like Helguera de Samano), and Treceño (June), among others. These towns, surrounded by pastures and the Cantabrian Sea, showcase the diversity and richness of the region through the drag parade, where it's common to see young people accompanying the older ones, both competing and cheering from the stands.

An essential part of the spectacle are the cattlemen, dressed in wooden albarcas and carrying the traditional vara : a long stick, up to 150 cm long, made of rush. The stick is used to guide and communicate with the oxen with precise and calm gestures, and is reminiscent of the staff used by the pilgrims themselves on the Camino. It is a symbol of authority, experience, and continuity; an object passed from parents to children and represents the bond between generations.

At these drag fairs and competitions, you'll see at least three generations gathered around the spectacle. Grandparents and parents teach the little ones the art of the pole and the secrets of drag, while children cheer on the dance floor and learn the value of tradition. The audience is also multigenerational: some remember their own experiences in the competition, and others have just discovered the show for the first time, feeling part of Cantabria's living history.

The drag race represents strength, respect, memory, and shared celebration. For hikers who walk the Camino del Norte, these events are an opportunity to contemplate the rural and marine beauty of Cantabria and pay tribute to the patience, hard work, and community that make it possible.

Cantabria is a land of cows, and anyone traveling along its coast along the Camino del Norte or exploring its inland valleys will soon realize how they define and enrich local life. Several breeds coexist here, each with its own history and character.

The Tudanca , native and emblematic, stands out for its resilience and adaptation to mountainous terrain. Medium-sized with a dark brown coat, it is easily recognized by its upturned horns and agile gait on steep slopes. Today, it is especially valued for the quality and flavor of its meat, which is featured in traditional dishes and a source of pride at fairs and gastronomic events in the region. The Tudanca represents rural identity, and its history intersects with literature and village life, making it a staple of livestock fairs and festivals.

The Friesian cow is the most common breed on Cantabria's many dairy farms. Originally from the Netherlands, it arrived a few decades ago and became popular due to its high milk production, becoming a mainstay in the cheese industry and in the production of cream and butter. It is easily distinguished by its black and white color and larger size than the Tudanca. The Friesian has brought modernization and volume to the rural economy, but the quality and flavor of products from native breeds are still highly valued by connoisseurs.

The Pasiega cow , endangered, represents a very special tradition, especially in the Pasiego Valleys. Its milk is especially prized for making artisanal butter and traditional sweets such as quesada and sobao pasiego. It is a robust-looking cow, light tan or reddish in color, and generally has a calm disposition. Its presence is increasingly rare, although there are programs to revive and promote its products to maintain it as a living part of the local culture.

The livestock tradition in Cantabria is deeply linked to dairy products, which are a part of everyday life and a culinary attraction. Visitors will find cheese factories that produce cheeses with Designation of Origin , such as the blue-paste Picón Bejes-Tresviso , with an intense flavor, and the milder and more aromatic Quesuco de Liébana . The selection is completed with the creamy and delicate Queso de Nata de Cantabria , and other artisanal mountain cheeses. Furthermore, Cantabrian milk is transformed into fresh butter, thick cream, yogurt, and, of course, the most representative sweets: Quesada Pasiega and Sobaos, the latter also with Designation of Origin, true emblems of local pastries and a delight for those seeking authentic flavors.

Many ranchers still use traditional methods, and it's common to see antique utensils in rural museums, such as wooden whisks and cheese molds that speak of generations dedicated to ranching and cheesemaking.

Cow culture in Cantabria is much more than production: it involves passed-down knowledge, rural festivals, and a direct relationship between the landscape and food. The cow is part of the region's DNA, and its milk, transformed into cheeses and pastries, is a delicious opportunity to connect with the essence of Cantabria.

On July 11, 2025, the presentation ceremony for the first round of funding from the Camino Regenerative Crowdfunding program, promoted by WAYS and the Spanish Federation of Friends of the Camino de Santiago, was held at the Royal Convent of Santa Clara in Carrión de los Condes.

The event marks the beginning of crowdfunding on the Camino de Santiago, with initiatives focused on strengthening local culture, improving key infrastructure, promoting inclusion, and moving toward greater sustainability along the Camino.
 

“We want to make it easier for the most conscious and committed travelers to participate directly and meaningfully on the Camino,” said María Parga, spokesperson for WAYS. “Thanks to Pilgrim Tokens, pilgrims can support projects like this one as they walk, explore, and add value to what they discover.”
 

On this occasion, the funds will be used to repair the elevator at the Monastery of Santa Clara, with the aim of improving the accessibility of this spiritual and heritage site. Sister Micaela, Abbess of the Monastery, received the commemorative certificate on behalf of her community, reaffirming the convent's deep commitment to the hospitality and spirit of the Camino.

For his part, the president of the Spanish Federation of Associations of Friends of the Camino de Santiago, Juan Guerrero Gil, emphasized that: “The Camino de Santiago would not be possible without the thousands of people who, like the Poor Clares, support it every day with generosity, effort, and hospitality. This action is another step toward a more just, humane, and sustainable Camino.”

The sponsors of this project, AENOR and the Provincial Council of Palencia , have provided funding in euros equivalent to the contributions made to Pilgrim Tokens by the community of walkers, thus multiplying the impact of this collective action. Both entities wanted to support this project for its symbolic and functional value: a tangible gesture toward accessibility, social cohesion, and recognition of the active role of local communities in the preservation and promotion of the Camino.

WAYS and the Spanish Federation of Friends of the Camino Associations invite any pilgrim or lover of the Camino de Santiago to contribute to other regenerative projects active on their digital platform, thus promoting a new model of solidarity and sustainable participation.

You can join at: https://waysjourneys.com/en/crowdfunding

Tierra de Campos and El Camino in Palencia

Tierra de Campos is an extensive region located in the northwest of Spain, distributed mainly between the provinces of Palencia, Valladolid, Zamora and León, in the autonomous community of Castilla y León. The region covers approximately 5,000 km2 of the provinces of, above all, Palencia and Valladolid and to a lesser extent Zamora and León. The Palencia sector, with more than 2,000 km2, occupies most of this region.

This vast plain is known for its predominantly flat landscape, its rich history and artistic heritage, its rural culture and its intense agricultural activity. Considered the quintessence of the landscape of Castilla y León, with its long spaces of golden plains and gentle undulations, Tierra de Campos has been one of the largest producers of cereal (wheat and barley) since the time of the Romans. 

One of the most interesting aspects of Tierra de Campos is its architectural and cultural heritage, where you can find important historical vestiges, such as Romanesque and Gothic churches, many of them with unique bell towers. Dovecotes, traditional buildings dedicated to raising pigeons, are also characteristic of this area.

El Camino in Palencia

The Tierra de Campos region is crossed by the Camino de Santiago, and the entire province of Palencia from Burgos to León, for more than 70 kilometers. This section does not present great difficulties, since it is possibly one of the flattest areas with the least unevenness of its international route and the pilgrim who wishes to do so on this section of the route in Palencia will not step on asphalt.

The landscape on this stretch of the road as it passes through Palencia ranges from the green banks of the Carrión or Pisuerga rivers and the freshness of the Canal de Castilla to the cereal immensities of Tierra de Campos.

Artistic and cultural heritage

This province contains one of the best exhibitions of Spanish Romanesque art from the 11th-12th century, with countless churches and hermitages of great historical value. In this section of the Jacobean Way , you can also see important Gothic monuments along with the traditional architecture of Palencia, based on mud and straw.

The pilgrim will be able to find important examples along the following route:

• Itero de la Vega. It preserves the remains of a Roman Bridge and the corresponding road that passed through there. It also has a simple jurisdictional stone roll
• Boadilla del Camino, with the parish church of Nuestra Señora de la Asunciónbuilt from the 15th to the 18th centuries. Also noteworthy is the baptismal font and its jurisdictional scroll.
• Fromista. With 2 churches declared historical-artistic monuments, the magnificent Church of San Martín de Tours and the Church of Santa María de Castillo.
• Villamentero de Campos. In its church dedicated to San Martín de Tours we find a Mudejar coffered ceiling from the 16th century and, from the same century, a main altarpiece, a Plateresque work.
• Villalcazar de Sirga. Of interest is the Church of Santa María la Blanca, declared a historical-artistic monument.
• Carrión de los Condes. Important city in the Middle Ages, and of great cultural interest, with the Church of Santa María de las Victorias y del Camino, the oldest in Carrión, built around the year 1130 and the Monasteries of San Zoiloand the Royal Monastery of Santa Clara .
• Quintanilla de la Cueza. With the parish church dedicated to the Assumption and its Roman Villa from the 3rd and 4th centuries in which a collection of mosaics discovered in 1970 are preserved.
• Calzadilla de la Cueza, point of the old cobbled road (which also gave its name to this town) of which remains are preserved.  In this area there are many typical buildings such as dovecotes.

Anyone who wants to explore this region of Tierra de Campos will not only be able to enjoy the magnificent artistic and cultural heritage, but will also have the opportunity to experience the solitude, tranquillity and endless fields of these lands with a pilgrim tradition.

Written by Angélica de Diego

The Carrión de los Condes website allows you to take a digital tour of Carrion and learn about the places it passes through in detail.

https://carriondeloscondes.lovesenqr.com

Two routes, Blue and Red, cover the entire city. 

In addition to the numerous and significant religious monuments of Carrion, the 360 ​​visit allows you to virtually “visit” the interior of numerous civil buildings that may be closed to pilgrims during their schedules:

The Sarabia Theater, built in the 19th century, is an Italian-style theater that has been an important cultural center in Carrión. Its main hall, with neoclassical decoration and capacity for 500 people, has hosted theatrical performances, concerts and cultural events. Its name honors Julián Sarabia, a local benefactor.

Town Hall: built in the 16th century and renovated in the 18th, it has a neoclassical style façade. The building houses the municipal offices and is the administrative center of Carrión.

House of Culture (Old Prison): The House of Culture, located in the old 19th century prison, has been rehabilitated for cultural activities, which is why the city library is located there. It preserves elements of its original structure, such as cells and stone walls, and offers exhibitions and workshops.

The Vera Cruz Museum: The Ermita de la Vera Cruz, of late Gothic style, is known for its Renaissance altarpiece. The hermitage houses the image of Christ of the True Cross, a polychrome wooden carving, and is a center of local devotion.

Holy Week Museum is a place where you can appreciate the richness of religious tradition in Carrión. Its collections illustrate the devotion and rites of Holy Week, one of the most important celebrations in the city.

The olla podrida (Rotten Pot) is one of the most important dishes in the gastronomy of Castile, and is particularly linked to Burgos, being one of the typical dishes of this province along with blood sausage (morcilla), Castilian soup, and suckling lamb.

Its name, which may seem strange today, does not seem to refer to the ingredients being in poor condition. It is believed that “podrida” (rotten) comes from the term “poderida”, which originally meant “powerful” or “strong”, which would be an allusion to the richness and strength of the ingredients used to make it.

This plate is a kind of stew or cooked food that is characterized by its abundance and variety of ingredients. The base of the dish is usually made of legumes, mainly red beans, although in some regional versions white beans or chickpeas are used. The typical olla podrida is added with strong pork meat ingredients, such as rice blood sausage and chorizo, along with marinated, cured and smoked ingredients such as ribs, bacon, ear and snout. To make the olla a perfect dish, the delicious ball or filling (relleno), made with egg and bacon, is sometimes added.

The preparation of the olla podrida is a process that requires time and patience. Traditionally, it is cooked over low heat for several hours, allowing the meats to soften and the legume to absorb the flavors of all the ingredients. This prolonged cooking is key to achieving the final result: a substantial stew, with a thick and well-flavored broth, and meat so tender that it practically melts in the mouth.

History and Tradition

The olla podrida is considered the precursor of all the current stews and casseroles in Spain and Latin America, it is full of history and tradition and has become a symbol of Burgos gastronomy.

The history dates back to the Middle Ages in Spain. Some relate it to the “adafina”, which Juan Ruiz, the Archpriest of Hita already mentions in his “Book of Good Love” (1330 and 1343). This dish was a very nutritious meal, which the Sephardic Jews prepared a day before the Sabbath, and combined legumes, vegetables, lamb and various spices. The Christian community would have added various parts of pork´s meat to the dish, becoming our version of the olla until nowadays. 

The olla podrida was originally a dish that was prepared in large iron or clay pots, which were placed on the fire, and allowed it to feed a considerable number of people. It is already recorded in Spanish recipe books from the 16th century and the richness or poverty of ingredients in this dish was due to the possibilities of each house.

In the 17th century, olla podrida was a dish associated with the upper classes, since the ingredients became more sophisticated, including exotic meats such as hare, pheasant and deer, as well as a wide variety of spices. The writer Miguel de Cervantes, in his work “Don Quixote de la Mancha”, refers to olla podrida as a delicacy worthy of the most opulent banquets, which underlines its importance in the gastronomy of the time.

Today, olla podrida is still appreciated by those who enjoy traditional Spanish cuisine, and many restaurants, especially in Castilla and Burgos, offer it as part of their typical menu.

Written by Angélica de Diego

Morcilla de Burgos, a type of Spanish blood sausage, is one of the most iconic products from Tierra de Campos. With its deep-rooted history in Spanish culinary tradition, Morcilla de Burgos stands out for its distinctive flavor, hearty ingredients, and versatility in various dishes. 

This traditional delicacy is cherished both locally and internationally, and it plays a significant role in the cultural and gastronomic identity of the Burgos region.

A Unique Blend of Ingredients
 

Morcilla de Burgos is made from a unique combination of ingredients, setting it apart from other varieties of blood sausage. The primary ingredients include pig’s blood, rice, onions, and lard, along with seasonings like salt, pepper, and a touch of paprika, which adds to its robust flavor profile. One of the key components that distinguishes Morcilla de Burgos from other Spanish blood sausages is the inclusion of rice. The rice was introduced in the XVIII century by the Valencian´s merchants who travelled to the mountainous region in Burgos to acquire its appreciated pine wood. The rice provides a soft, slightly chewy texture and helps balance the strong flavors of the blood and onions. The blend of these ingredients is packed into a natural casing, which is then boiled or grilled, giving the sausage its rich, dark appearance.
 

The sausage's flavor is hearty and earthy, with the sweet caramelized onions and savory pork blood balancing each other perfectly. The use of rice gives it a unique mouthfeel and softens the sometimes-intense flavor profile typical of blood-based products. This combination of ingredients has been refined over centuries, resulting in a product that is both flavorful and deeply tied to the region's agricultural and culinary heritage.
 

History and Tradition
 

The origins of Morcilla de Burgos can be traced back to ancient times when resourcefulness in food preparation was essential for survival. In rural communities, no part of the animal went to waste, and the creation of blood sausages like Morcilla de Burgos allowed people to preserve food for long periods. Over time, this practical food item evolved into a beloved culinary specialty.
 

In Burgos, the production of Morcilla has become an art form, with recipes passed down through generations. While many other regions in Spain produce their own variations of blood sausage, Morcilla de Burgos is particularly esteemed for its high-quality ingredients and traditional methods of preparation. In fact, the sausage has gained such a reputation that it now enjoys Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) status by the European Union, which guarantees that only blood sausages produced in Burgos following strict guidelines can be labeled as Morcilla de Burgos.
 

Culinary Uses
 

Morcilla de Burgos is an incredibly versatile ingredient, lending itself to a wide variety of dishes. It can be grilled, fried, or baked, and is often served as a tapa (small appetizer) or included in more complex dishes like stews and casseroles. Its rich flavor pairs well with hearty vegetables like potatoes, peppers, and legumes, and it is commonly found in traditional Spanish stews such as cocido or lentejas.
 

In recent years, chefs have begun to experiment with Morcilla de Burgos in more contemporary recipes, incorporating it into gourmet dishes and fusing it with international cuisines. Its bold, savory taste makes it an ideal ingredient for pairing with a range of flavors, from tangy vinegars and pickled vegetables to rich, creamy sauces.
 

A Symbol of Burgos and the region's culinary tradition and a testament to the value of preserving cultural heritage through food. Whether enjoyed at a rustic countryside table or in a modern urban tapas bar, Morcilla de Burgos continues to captivate food lovers with its distinctive taste and rich history. For anyone exploring the cuisine of Burgos trying Morcilla de Burgos is a must.

Written by Angélica de Diego

The Camino de Santiago, trodden by millions seeking something—whether it be penance, enlightenment, or simply a long walk—has always had its talismans. The scallop shell, the staff, the gourd for water. But for those in the know, for those who dig a little deeper into the history and lore of the Camino, there’s another symbol, one that’s a bit darker, a bit more mysterious: the azabache.

Azabache is not just any stone. It’s jet, black amber, fossilized wood that once stood tall and ancient during the Jurassic period, back when dinosaurs roamed the Earth. Found in the deep, dark pits of Asturias and a few other places around the globe, azabache is unique in its depth of color and the energy it seems to carry within its glossy, polished surface.

The Ancient Mystique of Azabache

For centuries, this stone has been intimately tied to the Camino de Santiago, not just as a pretty trinket to be bought and sold, but as a protector, a talisman. Pilgrims, weary from their long journey, would arrive in Santiago and often seek out a piece of azabache, carved into a cross, a scallop shell, or even the fist of protection, known as a "figa." These small amulets were believed to ward off evil, protect from the infamous mal de ojo—the evil eye—and ensure a safe journey home.

The roots of this belief run deep. In Roman times, and likely even before, jet was prized for its supposed magical properties. Its ability to generate an electric charge when rubbed, the way it seemed to absorb negative energy, all fed into the lore. By the Middle Ages, Santiago de Compostela had become the epicenter of azabache carving, with Rua de Acibechería (the Street of Jet) in the old town bustling with artisans who worked the stone into shapes both sacred and profane.

A Tradition That Endures

Fast forward to today, and azabache is still very much a part of the Camino experience. Sure, the streets of Santiago are lined with shops selling all manner of trinkets, some real, some less so, but for those who take the time to seek out the genuine article, the experience can be transformative.

Azabache, with its deep black color, is more than just a pretty stone. It’s a fossil, a remnant of a world long gone, but one that still speaks to us today. It’s a reminder of the passage of time, of the countless feet that have walked the Camino before us, and of the many more that will follow. It’s a connection to the earth, to the past, and to something greater than ourselves.

So next time you find yourself in Santiago, wandering through the narrow streets, stop by one of the old azabache shops. Pick up a piece of this ancient stone, feel its weight in your hand, its smoothness under your fingers. You’re holding more than just a stone—you’re holding a piece of history, a piece of the Camino itself.